All About Ovals

Oval lab grown diamonds are brilliant cut, faceted the same way as rounds to maximize light return and sparkle. What sets them apart is the shape. The elongated outline creates more surface area than a round diamond of the same carat weight, so ovals tend to look noticeably larger on the finger, often 10 to 15 percent bigger face-up.

They're also one of the more demanding shapes to buy well. Bow tie, color distribution, and length-to-width ratio all affect how an oval performs in person, and none of those factors show up on a grading report. This guide covers what to look for and how we approach selecting them.

What Makes Oval Diamonds Special

Oval lab grown diamonds are a brilliant cut, faceted the same way as rounds to maximize light return and sparkle. What sets them apart is the shape itself. The elongated outline creates more surface area than a round diamond of the same carat weight, so ovals tend to look noticeably larger on the finger, often 10 to 15 percent bigger face-up.

That combination of brilliant-cut performance and a shape that flatters the hand is a big part of why ovals have become one of the most requested shapes we work with.

The Bow Tie: What to Know

Most oval diamonds have some degree of bow tie, a dark shadow that runs horizontally through the center of the stone. It happens because of how light enters and exits elongated shapes, and it exists on a wide spectrum. Some bow ties are barely visible.

Others are pronounced enough to dull the diamond's appearance significantly. What makes this tricky is that bow tie doesn't show up on a grading report. You won't find it listed next to cut or symmetry. It can only be caught by looking at the stone in person, across different lighting conditions and angles.

Every oval in our inventory is reviewed by our team before it's listed. When your Diamond Concierge presents stones to you, bow tie has already been evaluated and filtered.

Choosing Your Size and Ratio

Oval diamonds come in a range of length-to-width ratios, typically between 1.30 and 1.60. A ratio closer to 1.30 gives a rounder, fuller look. Closer to 1.60 creates a longer, more slender silhouette. Most of our clients land somewhere between 1.35 and 1.50.

Your concierge will help you find the ratio that works best for your hand and your setting. The size gallery below shows real Ada pieces from 1.5 to 5 carats so you can see how each looks in person.

Settings for Oval Diamonds

Ovals are one of the most versatile diamond shapes (which is why they’re one of the most requested!). A solitaire is the most popular choice for engagement rings, a timeless choice that lets the diamond shine.

Diamond bands and halos add presence around the center stone. Three-stone settings with tapered baguettes or trapezoids are a natural fit for the oval's elongated form. East-west settings, where the stone is rotated sideways, have become more popular recently and give a more modern, architectural feel.

Every setting at Ada is made to order around your specific stone. All of our settings are made-to-order based on the specs of your diamond for a perfect finish.

Oval vs. Round: How They Compare

Round diamonds are the most popular shape for a reason. The round brilliant is engineered for light performance and has been refined for decades. Ovals offer most of the same brilliance in a shape that reads larger on the hand and tends to cost less per carat, largely because round cutting wastes more of the rough diamond.

The tradeoff is that ovals need more careful selection. Rounds don't have bow ties. Color distribution is more even across a round than it is across an elongated shape. So while an oval can be a genuinely beautiful and smart choice, the quality of the buying process matters more.

A well-selected oval is stunning. A poorly selected one can look flat, dark, or uneven. Two diamonds with identical grades can perform very differently in person, and this variation is greater for elongated shapes than almost any other cut. That’s why all of our diamonds are hand-selected after an in-person inspection by our experts.