Guide to Lab Diamond Shapes

Everything you need to know about lab diamond shapes, from round brilliants to Asscher cuts.

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Round Brilliant

The round brilliant is the most popular diamond shape in the world, and it's not hard to see why. Its 58-facet design is built to maximize light return, so rounds tend to outsparkle every other shape. They're also the most versatile, working in virtually any setting style. A well-cut round will show a distinct hearts and arrows pattern under magnification, which is one of the clearest signs of true cut precision.

Oval

Ovals have all the sparkle of a round with an elongated outline that looks visibly larger on the finger. They're our most popular fancy shape. L/W ratios typically run 1.35 to 1.50, shorter and rounder at the lower end, more elongated at the higher. Like other elongated shapes, ovals can show a bow tie shadow across the center. We check every stone for this in person before it makes it into our inventory.

Emerald Cut

Emerald cuts are step cuts, meaning they have fewer facets than brilliant cut diamonds. The parallel facets create a hall of mirrors effect that produces dramatic flashes of light. Because of that, clarity matters more here than it does with brilliant cuts. We recommend VS1 or better. Color is more forgiving. The elongated shape is finger-flattering, and the open table gives the diamond a look that's completely its own.

Pear

The pear shape combines a round's brilliance with an elongated, teardrop outline. It's considered to have the largest visual spread of all shapes, because the wide base and pointed tip make it look bigger on the finger than other stones of the same carat weight. L/W ratios typically run 1.40 to 1.65. Nearly all pears have some bow tie. We screen for stones where it's minimal or not visible at all.

Cushion Cut

Cushion cuts come in square (close to 1.0 L/W), slightly elongated (1.05 to 1.15), or more elongated (1.20 to 1.40) proportions. They can be cut as cushion brilliants with a star pattern or cushion modified brilliants with a crushed ice look. The biggest thing to watch for is a fish eye, which is a dark circle in the center of the table. We also check for bow tie and light leakage in person on every stone.

Radiant Cut

Radiant cuts have more facets than a round, typically 70, which gives them extra sparkle and sometimes a crushed ice appearance. We specialize in elongated radiants with L/W ratios of 1.40 to 1.50. Because of their deeper cut and smaller surface area, they tend to show color more than other shapes. If you want a bright white stone, we recommend staying in the colorless range.

Asscher Cut

Asscher cuts are sometimes called a square emerald cut. They share the same step-cut faceting, just more square than rectangular. Originally introduced in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers in Holland, they're one of the less common shapes on the market today, which means your ring will always stand out. Like emerald cuts, clarity matters a lot here. The large open facets show inclusions more easily than a brilliant cut would.

Princess Cut

Princess cuts are square brilliant cuts, so you get all the sparkle of a round in a square shape. The pointed corners are the main consideration when it comes to the setting. A prong at each corner will protect them from chipping over time. It's a great choice for someone who loves the brilliance of a round but wants something a little more geometric and modern.

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